John Smedley blends heritage and new technology to sustain UK knitwear production

John Smedley, a British knitwear manufacturer with roots dating back to the 18th century, continues to produce fine garments from its historic Peak District site in Derbyshire. The factory, recognised as the oldest continuously operating clothing mill in the world, houses a blend of high‑tech Japanese knitting machines, hand‑crafted processes and some equipment over 60 years old that requires custom parts. A workforce of about 230 people, including long‑standing artisans such as a 38‑year veteran who cuts necklines with chalk and a semi‑circular guide, completes the garments before they are trimmed and finished. A secondary finishing facility operates in Armthorpe, South Yorkshire.

The company holds royal warrants from King Charles and Queen Camilla, underscoring its status in the luxury market. Recent years have been challenging for the brand, but it has responded by launching new designs, forming celebrity partnerships and investing in the latest knitting technology. These steps aim to keep the label relevant in a market where most UK fashion manufacturing has moved offshore to cheaper locations such as China, India and Bangladesh.

Background

John Smedley’s Derbyshire site contains a maze of buildings, one of which dates to 1784. The factory’s longevity contrasts with a broader decline in British garment production: the Office for National Statistics, as compiled by UKFT, reports 3,515 clothing manufacturers in the UK, a drop of 315 from a decade earlier. Employment in the sector has fallen to roughly 15,000 workers, reflecting the shift of many brands to overseas production over the past three decades.

Why it matters

The survival of John Smedley illustrates how heritage brands can adapt to a contracting domestic industry while preserving skilled jobs. Maintaining a mix of historic and modern equipment allows the company to meet luxury‑market expectations for quality and craftsmanship. The brand’s royal warrants and high‑profile collaborations help sustain its reputation, potentially influencing consumer perception of British-made fashion and encouraging other manufacturers to consider similar hybrid approaches.

What happens next

John Smedley plans to continue investing in advanced knitting technology and to expand its design collaborations, though specific future projects were not detailed in the source material. The company’s ongoing commitment to bespoke parts for older machinery suggests further maintenance of its historic production capabilities as part of its long‑term strategy.